Restaurant of the year

December 29, 2006
BY PAT BRUNO

In my original review (Aug. 11) I said, "I would include one sixtyblue in any Top 10 restaurant list I would put together for Chicago." In the city proper, this restaurant stands tall, but my naming it restaurant of the year was not a slam-dunk (two others restaurants were in contention).

I did a lot of pondering and drawing up of lists to arrive at my decision. Also, I made a recent return visit to one sixtyblue just to be sure. The sum of all that is this: Quality and creativity abound in a menu that blends French and American contemporary (with a touch of Mediterranean, too) in a manner that is both tasteful and quite tasty.

Executive chef Martial Noguier stokes his food with flavor the way Gauguin stroked his canvas with color. Enhancements and nuances pervade each dish, yet Noguier is not a seeker of extremes, so every ingredient finds its proper place, sort of like completing a jigsaw puzzle.

Tables are generously spaced, and the decor is soothing. Service is astute and knowledgeable (Noguier works the room a lot, which keeps everybody on his toes). Reasonable prices vis-a-vis quality, a fine wine list, and one of the best cheese services around. It all adds up the way I see it to a restaurant worthy of your attention.

1400 W. Randolph,
(312) 850-0303.